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How to Cut Your Hair - Fresh Take Ep. 4

Posted on The Fresh Chalk Blog • by Christina Nelson • Friday May 1st

Barbershops and hair salons have been closed for weeks and you’re likely ready to take matters into your own hands. Before you grab the scissors and make the big chop, we’re here to help you avoid making a decision you’ll regret.

On this week’s episode of Fresh Take, four of Seattle’s top hairstylists performed live demonstrations and shared their expert tips for cutting and coloring your hair at home. These tips will help you and your family manage your hair even if you’re not lucky enough to live with a stylist.

How to Cut Kids’ Hair

Members of your family with short hair are likely starting to look shaggy. Cori Kelly of Coupe Rokei Salon and Flagship Academy for La Biosthetique demonstrated how to cut short hair on her son.

What you will need

1. Make a guideline

To get started, section off the top portion of the hair so that you have a guideline for where you will shave the sides of the head. The easiest way to identify where to section off the hair is by taking your comb and finding the point where the head curves. Then, clip back the top section of the hair to get it out of the way.

2. Shave the sides of the head

After you have created a guideline, you are ready to begin shaving the sides of the head. You will need to select a guard for the clippers. Cori recommends starting with a 3.5 guard. This will help prevent you from cutting too much hair off at once. If you find that you want the hair shorter, you can use a shorter guard later to take off the extra length.

Shave the sides of the head in a straight line, moving the clippers from the bottom of the neck to your guideline. Keep the clippers straight against the head and avoid rocking the clippers as you move upward. When you reach the ear, push the top of the ear down to reach the hairs that may be hiding behind it.

3. Shave the back of the head

When cutting the back of the head, tell your child to look down at their feet. This way, you will be able to cut the hairs at the nape of the neck. Continue moving the clippers from the base of the neck upward to your guideline as you did with the sides.

4. Trim the front

After you have finished using the clippers to shave the sides and the back of the head, you can begin trimming the bangs. Use your comb to pick up the front layer of hair. Then, take your scissors at a slight angle and cut into the hair to take off the extra length.

How to Cut your Bangs

Allegra Lowe of High Post Salon explained how to trim overgrown bangs. If you don’t have bangs and you’re looking to make a change, save this for your stylist when salons reopen--you won’t regret waiting for professional help.

What you will need

  • A comb
  • A sharp pair of scissors
  • Two hair clips
  • A mirror

1. Section out your bangs with a comb

Using a comb, section out your bangs. Use your hair clips to pull the rest of your hair away from your face so you don’t mistakenly cut away unwanted pieces.

2. Prepare your bangs for trimming

Make sure that your bangs are styled the way you normally wear them. Allegra recommends dry cutting your bangs as wet hair shrinks, which may lead to your bangs drying shorter than expected.

3. Trim the bangs

Start trimming the middle section of your bangs, leaving the side sections out. Hold the point of your scissors up and point cut into your bangs. Start by trimming your bangs slightly longer than you typically like. It is easier to take extra length off later than to cut off too much.

After trimming the middle section, grab more hair from the side, and lightly cut and marry that section into the middle section you just trimmed. Repeat this process for the other side section of your bangs.

How to Clean up your Beard

If your beard routine has relaxed over the past several weeks, Collin Scott Davis of Coupe Rokei Salon and Flagship Academy for La Biosthetique demonstrated how you can define your neckline and clean up the edges.

What you will need

1. Shave the neck

Take your index finger parallel to your jawline and trace it up to your neck. When your finger hits your jawline, the bottom edge of your finger is where the base of your beard should stop. Bringing the edge of your beard down too low can create a shadow that will make it look like you have a double chin.

Once you have found where to stop, you can begin shaving the hairs that fall beneath this line. For a close shave, go over areas more than once.

2. Clean up the top edge of the beard

To find the best location to stop the top of your beard, Collin recommends drawing an imaginary line from the top of your ear down to the corner of your lip. Shave the hairs that fall above the line with your razor. Repeat this on both sides of your face to create a crisp edge.

How to Fade your Hair

Professional barbers take years to master the art of fading. As a rule of thumb, wait for a professional to fade your hair rather than attempting this challenge at home. If you are daring enough to attempt a fade now, Collin explained how he fades his hair.

What you will need

  • Clippers with multiple guards
  • A mirror

Fade with clippers

Begin by finding the point where you want your fade to begin. Collin starts at the top of the ear, working in upward motions from the baseline to the curve of the head. As you near the curve of the head, swoop the clippers in an upward motion to vary the length of the cut.

If you have clippers with multiple guard heads, increase the length of the guards incrementally as you approach the curve of the head to create your fade.

To fade the back of the hair, keep the hair a little longer. Collin recommends finishing your fade using a product like the La Biosthetique Modulator to blend the hair to create a seamless look.

How to Color your Roots

Now that we have been in quarantine for over six weeks, your roots are likely starting to show. Hana Schaplow of High Post Salon shared how to apply color to your roots.

What you will need

  • Hair dye
  • A comb
  • A color brush
  • A color bowl (glass or plastic)
  • Salve, Vaseline, or another oil-based product
  • Glove

1. Choose the right dye for your hair

Contact your stylist to see if they are providing color kits that you can use to touch up your roots at home. Use boxed dye from the store if your salon is not providing at-home kits.

2. Prepare your hair

Prepare your hair by parting it with a comb. This will give you a starting point for dying visible growth along your part and hairline. When coloring your roots at home, you will want to only dye the sections of your hair from your ears forward.

Make sure that your hair is completely dry. Comb out your hair to avoid applying dye on top of any tangles or knots.

3. Prevent dye from staining your skin

To prevent dye from staining your skin, use Vaseline, a salve, or another oil-based lotion to line your hairline. The oil-based product will create a barrier between your skin and the dye that you can wipe off later.

4. Apply dye to your roots

Place your dye in the bowl. Coat your color brush with enough product to saturate the tips of the bristles. Start brushing the product directly on the areas where your natural hair color is visible. Avoid overlapping the dye on your already-colored hair to prevent banding.

Once you have dyed the hair along your part, begin applying dye to your hairline. Pull back any pieces of hair around your face to reveal the grow out.

After you have dyed your part and your hairline, take a quarter-inch section of hair with your comb and pull the section over your part to reveal the growth at the base. Take more dye on your brush and apply it to the grow out. Keep applying dye in quarter-inch sections until you reach your ear. Repeat the process for the other side of your head.

5. Let the dye process

The length of time that you should leave the dye on will depend on the product you are using. If you are working with a kit from your salon, your stylist should tell you how long the dye needs to process. Refer to the directions on the box if you are using a boxed dye from the store. Processing time can vary from as little as 20 minutes to upwards of 40 minutes.

Final Thoughts

With these tips from Seattle’s top stylist, your hair will look fresh in no time. To find more salon tips and tricks, follow Coupe Rokei Salon and High Post Salon on Fresh Chalk.

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